Nnodi: 15,000 Will Get You To Cotonou Easily From Marina By Boat

I had a chat with Nnodi of Travel With Nno and she shared her experience with travelling across borders of a number of African countries, the cost, racism, places to get buses and so much more. She gets into all of the nitty-gritty details and answers a lot of questions you might have about travelling to countries like Benin and Togo.

Here is what she has to share with us….

My name is Nnodi and I run a budding travel business called Travel with Nno. I would love to share a bit of my experience thus far.

Nnodi about Bénin and Togo

I would share Bénin and Togo because I’m most familiar with their land borders, unlike other African countries. I have been going to Bénin since 2012 and now 11 years later a lot has changed. Take a walk with me.

Travelling to Cotonou in 2012

In 2012, it would cost you 1,000-1,500 naira to get a vehicle at Mile 2, lyana Ipaja, Maza Maza to Seme Krake. In 2017, it was 2000 naira and now in 2023, from Mile 2 to Seme costs 5,000-7,000 naira for the same saloon car that seats 4 persons minus the driver. Of course, this can be cheaper if you get on a Molue to Badagry which would cost you roughly 800 naira and a 200 naira bike/ keke to Seme but your comfort is needed yeah? You can also get a bike from Seme to Badagry for 1,000 naira and a bike from Badagry to Ikeja Along for 8,000 naira.

You really can choose your means of transportation in Surulere would cost you 70,000 naira and this is not me talking about costs for transportation companies. A boat ride from Badagry to Marina would cost you less than 5,000 naira and a boat ride from Marina straight to DanTokpa market in Cotonou would cost you less than 15,000 naira and it is fast and removes the hassle of stamping and all the bribes asked by the immigration officers.

You can cross borders on foot and I highly recommend this as it is cheaper. Bénin to Togo will cost you 7,500 XOF if you get a vehicle at Etoile Rouge (not a transport company, vehicles from the park) as opposed to the 2000 – 3000 XOF you would spend for Bénin to Hilaconji Border and cross on foot and get a vehicle for 1,000 XOF to Lomè. Even in situations you pay for a vehicle to cross the border, you would most likely still walk across especially on the Togolese side because they are highly corrupt and refusal to pay money will not help.

Nnodi sharing her experience with racism

Seme Border is now way more arranged and synced and the hassles are reduced, unlike the Hilaconji side. The Beninois are still not friendly and just want their money and your phone number. Some Nigerians also do this. Stamping at Seme is considerably cheaper than at Hilaconji and Nigerians are willing to stamp for free or less. If you are in the military, don’t have money or if they are in a good mood. Unlike their Béninese and Togolese counterparts. There’s racism and partiality at the border. I always joke that at least, Nigerians treat everyone in the same manner, unlike the Beninese and Togolese that pander to white skin. 

Bribery

The Nigerian would request bribes from everyone, the money most times fixed regardless of nationality except if it’s a “Virgin” passport or your first land stamp (I do not understand this annoying concept of paying money to get a land border stamp and the immigrations of a country saying it’s different from an air stamp), whereas the Togolese and Béninese let you go through for cheaper if you are Francophone and treat you like thrash (especially Togolese) if you are Anglophone and charge you much more if you are Nigerian.

They do not take money from Whites, they are polite to them, doing the right thing with them, using no slur word (they are quick to throw ashewo and the likes on Nigerians) and even calling them Patron. I’d be quick to point out this is my experience, and also the same with people that have travelled with me or alone but have conversed with me.

Trying to cross borders with a passport?

You can cross both borders without a passport but it would cost you so much money and I do not recommend it. You would need a yellow card (with 3 vaccines < yeah including meningitis, even if Southern Nigerians are not given that vaccine > if not they’d rip you off at each border), a covid 19 card and your passport.

You’d also need your wit’s end and exact cash (I suggest using N as it’s lesser in value than XOF & you would feel less cheated. They take the exact sum, no matter the currency) to pay these officers. They also know they are committing crimes, so they tell you to put away your phone and if you refuse they can smash it.

This is a budget trip rundown and not the exact cost for every leg of the trip. Bénin is a very beautiful country and worth the stress at Seme or Idiroko. In my experience so far, Togo isn’t worth the stress. There are a group of certain Togolese immigration officers that are amazing, they make taking the trip across that border worth it.

If you would like to connect with Nnodi, you can find her on her social media, her Twitter is open for people who have a question or two for her.